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Cinnamon Land
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Kanmangafuchi Abyss
🏞️ Scenic

Kanmangafuchi Abyss

📍 Tochigi, Nikko

A short, mossy gorge walk in Nikko lined with a row of stone Jizo statues in red bibs — the 'Bake Jizo,' famous for the local saying that you can never count them and get the same number twice.

Away from Nikko’s grand shrines, a quiet path follows the Daiya River into a small basalt gorge formed by an old lava flow. This is the Kanmangafuchi Abyss, and its real draw stands in a long, silent row along the bank.

Why It’s Interesting

Dozens of weathered stone Jizo statues — guardians of travelers and children — sit shoulder to shoulder in faded red bibs and caps, mossed over and watching the water. They’re nicknamed the Bake Jizo (“ghost Jizo”) because of a gentle local legend: count them on your way in and again on your way out, and you’ll never arrive at the same number. True or not, it makes the walk quietly magical, especially with the river rushing and maples flaming overhead.

Best Time to Visit

Year-round, but November frames the statues in red autumn leaves; early mornings are hushed and empty.

Getting There

A bus or a lovely 25-minute walk from the Nikko stations — a peaceful counterpoint to the area’s busier sights.

🐿️ Cinnamon was here

Field report

In Nikko, past the tourist line, a mossy gorge path is guarded by a row of stone Jizo statues in red knitted bibs — the Bake Jizo, 'ghost Jizo,' famous because you cannot count them and get the same number twice.

I counted them four times. I got 74, 76, 74, and 71, and I am a professional counter of things (acorns, primarily; my winter depends on it). I don't wish to alarm anyone but the legend is operational.

The gorge itself is a lovely dark rush of river over volcanic rock, fifteen minutes' walk from the crowds at the shrines, and mostly empty. The bibs are re-knitted by locals for the souls of children, which will sit in your chest a while, as it should. Count. Report your numbers. Add to the mystery.

— Cinnamon 🐿️

📸 Cinnamon's camera roll

Snapshots from our very good boy on the road.

Count attempt three of four along the red-bibbed Bake Jizo: 74, 76, 74, 71. I am a professional counter of things. The legend is operational.
The dark rush of river over volcanic rock, fifteen minutes from the shrine crowds and mostly empty. The bibs are re-knitted by locals for the souls of children — that one sits in your chest a while.
Jizo statue row at Kanmangafuchi
Photo via Wikimedia Commons
A row of mossy red-bibbed stone Jizo statues along a forested river gorge
A line of mossy Jizo by a rushing river. Count them — you never get the same number.
Mon-chan and Cinnamon the squirrel quietly passing the row of red-bibbed Jizo by the river
We counted the little guardians — a different number each time. Cinnamon found acorns. 🍁

Where it is

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