Kakimori
📍 Tokyo, Kuramae
A Kuramae stationery shop where you hand-pick the cover, paper, binding, and closure to build a one-of-a-kind notebook — plus a spin-off next door where you mix your own custom fountain-pen ink.
Kuramae has quietly become one of Tokyo’s best “old warehouse district turned maker’s neighborhood” walks, and Kakimori — open since 2010 — is the anchor most people come for.
Why It’s Interesting
Rather than buy a notebook off a shelf, you build one: choose the cover material, the interior paper stock, the binding rings, and the closure, one physical sample at a time, and staff assemble it in front of you. It’s a strange, slow, satisfying kind of shopping that turns a stationery run into an actual activity. Next door, the spin-off Inkstand lets you mix your own fountain-pen ink from a small palette of base pigments — genuinely odd, and very few other shops anywhere do it.
Best Time to Visit
Weekday afternoons are calmest if you want to build a notebook without waiting; weekends are busier but still workable for a shorter visit.
Getting There
About an 8-10 minute walk from Kuramae Station through a neighborhood of old warehouses turned into cafés, leather workshops, and small chocolate factories — worth wandering slowly rather than beelining.
🐿️ Cinnamon was here
Field report
At Kakimori in Kuramae you build your own notebook: choose the cover, the papers, the binding, the closure, and watch them ring-bind it while you wait. Then next door you can mix a bottle of ink to your own personal color.
I keep the atlas's field journals, so this was less shopping and more equipment procurement. I chose a bark-brown cover, mixed-weight pages (sketching AND ranting), and a copper ring binding. For the ink I mixed acorn-cap brown with a drop of torii red, and the ink man held it to the light and said 'autumn.' I nearly wept into the sample jar.
Budget an hour and more money than seems sane for paper; the humans all overspend and float out happy. My notebook is the one this report was drafted in. It performs beautifully.
— Cinnamon 🐿️
📸 Cinnamon's camera roll
Snapshots from our very good boy on the road.
Where it is
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Nearby discoveries
Japanese Sword Museum
Kyu-Yasuda Teien
Yokoamicho Park & Tokyo Memorial Hall
Sumida Hokusai Museum
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